Report on Safari to Congo

The following report is based upon the report that elder/secretary Dave wrote in Kiswahili during our trip (safari) to Congo. I have translated his text and added my own details and insights to create the following report in English.


Top row, L to R - Dave, Azoni (Congo), Alphonce, Kitungano (Congo); bottom row - Don, Grayson

Congo is the largest nation in Africa. It is located west of Tanzania, in central Africa. We traveled from Tanzania to Congo to see the work God is doing in the Haven of Peace Christian Churches, which are a branch of the Haven of Peace Christian Church in Dar es Salaam.

The HPCCs in Congo were begun by pastor Kitungano Ngoy Joseph in 2006 in the city of Bukavu in the province of South Kivu. HPCC has now spread to other areas of Maniema, North Kivu, and Uvira.

Our Journey began on May 12th and ended on May 24th.

Roster of travelers:
Pastor Alphonce Amri Lubarati – Chairman, founder, and elder of HPCC in Dar es Salaam
Daud (Dave) Onesmo Masele – General Secretary and elder of HPCC - Dar
Don Buckner – Missionary and elder of HPCC – Dar
Grayson Mutazamba – Supervisor of property and elder of HPCC - Dar

Congo Safari – Day 1
We were late to begin our journey because we were waiting to get a copy of the original car registration for Don Buckner’s car – we were advised that it would be best to have it with us when crossing the border from Tanzania into Rwanda. The computer system was down at the office that was processing the registration card, and so we were told that it would be okay to go without it. We agreed that we should start the trip even though it was already afternoon – we would drive as far as we could that day. With the help of God, we arrived safely at Dodoma, Tanzania, after 5 hours of driving.

Congo Safari – Day 2
We began our day at 6 a.m. and drove west all day – our goal was spend the night near the Tanzania/Rwanda border. It was on this leg of the trip that we had to endure an unpaved portion of highway between Dodoma and Singida – we drove for several hours on a dirt road of varying conditions. Chinese contractors have been working very slowly on constructing and paving this segment. At 5 p.m. we arrived safely at the mountain town of Ngara, where we searched vigorously for a guesthouse to spend the night. After more than an hour of looking for a hotel with a vacancy, we were led to a nice Catholic guesthouse where we were well fed and had a refreshing night’s sleep.

Congo Safari – Day 3
We arrived at the Tanzania/Rwanda border at Rusumu at 7:30 a.m. After filling out the proper paperwork, we were cleared to cross into Rwanda. As we crossed the bridge that divides the two countries we were treated with a breathtaking view of a waterfall beneath us (unfortunately no photo). After more paperwork on the Rwandan side we were off again. In Rwanda and Congo we had to drive on the right side of the road, not the left as in Tanzania. The roads in Rwanda were wonderful – almost like driving in America! The speed limit, however, was limited to just 60 kph (38 mph). Rwanda is all mountains, so the roads are winding and make for slow travel.

After two and a half hours, we reached the capital of Kigali. There we met up with pastor Kitungano, who travels from Bukavu to Kigali regularly to teach at a Bible college. Kigali was surprisingly well developed and clean compared to Dar es Salaam. After a quick lunch together, we continued our journey across Rwanda. In the western part of Rwanda we passed through Nyungwe National Park, a lush and mountainous area where gorillas live, though the only animals we saw were several macaque monkeys. We had to drive carefully through several parts of the park due to fog setting in and obscuring the winding road ahead of us.

Photo: Tea plantations in Rwanda

We reached the town of Rusizi on the border of Rwanda and Congo at 8 p.m., but the border was closed, forcing us to spend the night there. The nuns (masista in Kiswahili) saved the day again as we found room and board at a Catholic guesthouse located there.

Congo Safari – Day 4

We crossed over into Bukavu, Congo at 9:15 the next morning. We were immediately greeted with the cold handshake of corruption and bribery, something we had been warned about. We filled out the proper forms that permitted us to bring the car into the country for $15, but the officials took $20 without returning change and giving a receipt. Then the customs officers demanded to search through all our bags, or else give them $5 and they would let us go without searching anything.

Next came a lady from the health department, who wanted to see our passports to see if we had the required “yellow card” that records our immunizations, specifically yellow fever. None of the Tanzanian men had a yellow card at all, and Don’s showed that he was due for another yellow fever shot. Therefore, it was necessary for each of us to get a yellow fever shot there and then in order to continue on. After a long discussion with the lady, she demanded that we pay $40 for each of the three Tanzanian men to get the shots, and $10 for Don since his was not up-to-date.

We all piled into the car and drove a short distance up the road to a church dispensary to get our shots. When we arrived, we had to wait outside because there was a seminar taking place inside. We waited and waited until, finally, with a wink, the lady told us that she would fill out our yellow cards saying that we received the shots if we returned later to get the shots. We payed her $100 and she filled out the form as if we had just received the shots.

We drove straight from the border to the Haven of Peace mother church in Mukukwe Nyawera, Bukavu. We were greeted in the street by a group of over 70 pastors singing, playing drums, and celebrating as we pulled up in our car (photo at right).

The church building was built by using donated tarps from UNICEF for walls, and poles to hold up a tin roof overhead. As guests, we were seated up front and to the side, sitting on cushioned chairs. All of the other pastors and leaders sat jammed together on wooden benches. Pastor Misangi Bernade welcomed us all to his church and introductions were made all around.

After the greetings were finished, we headed to Kitungano’s house to have lunch, ugali (corn flour boiled until it’s somewhat like grits) and meat along with boiled potatoes. On the way back to start the seminar at church, we stopped in the office of the mayor of Bukavu to be introduced. Returning to church, we were stopped by the traffic police. Unfortunately, Dave’s license had just expired, and the police wanted a bribe of $190. After some negotiation, Dave payed him $50. We heard that the police and military, as well as many other officials, do not receive any salary. They make their living on bribes.

Our seminar began at 3 p.m. Dave kicked off the seminar, teaching on “Servant Responsibilities in the Church” (photo at right). Next, Alphonce began his teaching on marriage. There were approximately 110 people present for this session of the seminar. The seminar wrapped up at 6 p.m. We returned to Kitungano’s house, the place we were to call home while in Bukavu.

Congo Safari – Day 5

The next morning we enjoyed a quick breakfast of tea and bread before heading off to the seminar that started at 9:30. Grayson (below)began the day’s teaching on “Following Jesus.”

After Grayson was finished, a choir stood and sang for everyone. Then it was Don’s turn to teach on “The Purpose of the Christian in the Church.” Another choir followed, followed by Dave again, who wrapped up his lesson from the day before.

The final lesson of the day was taught by Alphonce, who continued (for 2 hours) his teaching on marriage – specifically “12 Illnesses of Marriage.” At 68 years of age, Alphonce is not afraid to teach on any and all issues regarding marriage – some of which are not generally spoken about in any public forum, let alone a church, in East Africa. The room was filled at times with embarrassed giggles and hilarious laughter as he spoke openly about intimate marriage matters.

The seminar was coming to a close after 6+ hours of sitting in the hot church with no food or drink or rest. The 130 or so people were all exhausted. It was then that a man named Kyembwa came forward. He had been in conflict with some of the Haven of Peace leaders and had stirred up a lot of trouble. Amidst tears he stepped forward and confessed his mistakes and sins and asked for forgiveness from the leaders and his fellow pastors. The whole church was filled with tears as we gathered around Kyembwa and prayed together and thanked God for what He was doing in Kyembwa’s heart and in the body of Christ as well (photo at right).

God had transformed the atmosphere in the room from exhaustion to exhilaration and delight. Kyembwa’s repentance and desire for reconciliation brought the entire body of believers together.

Congo Safari – Day 6

This day (Saturday, May 17th) was set aside for a special ceremony to lay hands on and install four leaders of HPCC – Congo. As it turned out, this was not a short and simple affair.

In the morning Don was surprised to see that all the men (including the 3 guys he was traveling with) were dressing in a suit and tie! (Don’s note: It seems every Congolese man owns a nice suit and tie, no matter how poor they are. I felt very under dressed in my cargo pants, tennis shoes, and short-sleeved collared shirt. I scrambled to put on a lightweight long-sleeved shirt, which I complemented with a borrowed tie that matched nicely.) Another quick breakfast of tea and bread and Dave and Don were off to retrieve the car from the secure place we left it at each night. This time Don was driving when they passed by a traffic police checkpoint. Everything checked out okay with the police except one thing – Dave was sitting in the passenger seat without his seat belt on. Strike two for Dave, and a $15 fine. Alphonce was not happy with Dave, and Dave was feeling bad about it as well.

We jammed the car full of people to head to the large church building that was rented for the special occasion of installing the HPCC leaders. Dave and another Dave (we called him Congo Dave) walked to the church since there was not enough room in the car.

Side note: Congo Dave (pictured at right) is a man who grew up an orphan and was taught by pastor Misangi’s family. He studied medicine but now works as an evangelist and lives with pastor Kitungano. During our stay he was a servant to the extreme. He prepared our food, washed our clothes, prepared warm water to bathe in, and cheerfully took care of our every need. There were a couple of nights when there was no place available for him to sleep, so he lined up several wooden chairs in the dining room and slept across those.

The large church building was filled with over 300 people including family members, church members, and leaders from other churches. We four men from Tanzania got to sit on stage along with the other guests of honor, facing the audience. Don was the only Mzungu (European, white guy!) in the whole room.

The ceremony was officiated by Kyanga Mweswa Emanuel, the superintendent of the Haven of Peace churches in Congo. Several choirs performed to get the ceremony started. Then a long series of introductions were made. Next, pastor Alphonce stood and preached to the congregation.

Next came a series of personal testimonies from family and friends of the four people who were to be prayed for. They told brief histories of each person and vouched for their character and qualifications to be good leaders. Following the testimonies, the leaders were brought forth and hands were laid on them as they were prayed for.

The 4 people who were installed as leaders that day:

• Kitungano Ngoy Joseph – Chairman of HPCC – Congo
• Azoni Mango Kimengele – General Secretary of HPCC – Congo
• Wilondja Abukya Lambert – Treasurer of HPCC – Congo
• Therese Misangi Luzinga Bimwana – Leader of Women of HPCC – Congo

Following the ceremony everyone stayed around for food and sodas. Then it was back home to rest up for Sunday.

Left to right: Therese, Wilondja, Kitungano, Azoni. Africans rarely smile for photos!

Congo Safari – Day 7

We woke up early to prepare for church but as usual, the service began late. We learned that the people in Congo have a bigger problem adhering to schedules and times even more than Tanzanians do. Dave was slated to teach Sunday school, so he headed to church as soon as he had tea in order start class on time.

Worship service began with a multitude of introductions of various church leaders from all the Haven of Peace Churches in Congo. Communion followed, but there were too many people and not enough cups of juice to go around the first time, requiring a bit of a wait while the cups were refilled for those who did not partake the first round. After communion, Alphonce delivered a sermon to the over 200 attendees.

After church we headed back to Kitungano’s house to eat. Then we were off to visit a small HPCC church on the outskirts of Bukavu called Soari. It was dusk when we arrived, so we sat in the small mud church building lit by one kerosene lantern and a flashlight interviewing the church leaders.

It was late by the time we arrived back at Kitungano’s, so we at a late dinner and headed to bed. Little did we know what adventures God had prepared for us in the next few days.

Congo Safari – Day 8

The day started as usual - breakfast of chai (tea) and bread, followed by the fetching of the Land Cruiser from its safe parking place. We loaded up our bags that we had prepared for an overnight stay in Kamituga. Then the hunt was on for a gas station that still wasn’t completely out of diesel fuel. Eventually we found one, and at 10 a.m. we were on our way out of town headed for Kamituga, some 175km southwest of Bukavu.

The road to Kamituga was very mountainous, but the dirt road was pretty well maintained by the Chinese contractors. After a couple of hours of driving we came upon the HPCC in that area, in the village of Kionvu Kalambi. We stopped briefly to greet the pastor and pray for the church. A bit farther up the road we stopped briefly at the HPCC in Kibumba.

(photo: the church in Kionvu Kalambi)

We continued until we reached the area of Mwenga Mkonge. We were unable to turn onto the road to enter the town to see the church because there were many soldiers with weapons. Before the town, however, we passed by a U.N. refugee camp for Hutus from Rwanda.

It was there that we got a report that the daughter of one of the womens’ leaders in that area was in the hospital that was located on the main road. We stopped and went in to visit the woman and her daughter and pray for them. When we left, the woman came along with us to visit Kamituga.

The next church we visited was in Kibanda. The people from the church were waiting for us in the road, and escorted us to the church while singing and celebrating along the way. After a brief time of worship Alphonce was given the honor of placing the first cornerstone that was to be the new church building (photo at right). Then we were led to the pastor’s house where we were treated to a meal of rice and chicken. By now the time was 5:30 p.m, and we still had 27 km to travel to reach Kamituga.

After traveling 9 kilometers we came upon a really bad section of road that was wet and muddy. We stopped the car and walked on foot to survey the several hundred meter stretch to see if we could pass. Don, conservative as he is, was hesitant to try it and tear up his new car. After placing some large rocks into the more soggy areas, we drove carefully through the section using four-wheel drive.

We resumed our trek until we stopped to greet the HPCC church at the village of Mungombe, located 12 km from our destination of Kamituga. There we received news that the road ahead to Kamituga was impassable by car – we would have to hike the remaining distance in the dark. We left the car at a safe place, a local medical clinic, and several young people were recruited from the town to carry our overnight bags.

We set off on foot at 7:30 p.m. It was a beautiful, clear night with just a few clouds and an almost full moon. The path underneath us, however, was not so beautiful. We traveled along the abandoned road for most of the hike. The road was very uneven, with large ruts carved into the dirt, sometimes covered in mud and water. We walked on and on, climbing up and down hills. Along the way it was necessary to cross two rivers via old bridges that were in disrepair (photo above). Most of the planks that should have been attached to the top of steel beams to create a flat surface were missing. That meant each person had to find a way to cross that was comfortable for him or her. Some crossed on all fours, using hands and feet to find a solid footing to move forward. The locals simply walked across one beam from one end to the other. Others used the metal beams standing vertically along the sides of the bridge to help them across. After the second river we began a steep ascent towards Kamituga. Alphonce was very tired by this point, so Dave put his arm under his shoulder and took some of the burden off of him. We finally arrived in Kamituga at 10:30 p.m.

(photo: Kamituga)

Our arrival in Kamituga was unexpected – they were not expecting us until the next day. So the people there set about to prepare places for us to sleep, food to eat, and water to bathe in. We finally made it to bed after midnight, and food was finally brought to us at 2:15 a.m. Dave and Don were too tired from driving and hiking all day to get up and eat. Don didn’t sleep well at all because his bed was too short and the mattress was bowl shaped instead of being flat.

We were told that just two kilometers away from Kamituga live a group of Hutu refugees from Rwanda. Periodically they will come into Kamituga for armed robbery, raping, and killing. There is no government protection or control in the area to prevent this.

Congo Safari – Day 9

We woke up early and prepared to go to church to teach the seminar again. Our hosts brought us a breakfast of tea, ugali, and goat intestines (Don passed on the goat intestines!)

Church was another 600 meter walk, and we were running 45 minutes late again. The small mud church building was packed with people eager to start. Don began the seminar, teaching on “loving one another.” Then Grayson taught on following Jesus, followed by Alphonce’s always-popular teaching on marriage. Wrapping things up was a choir that had traveled 45 km to be at the seminar. The seminar ended at 2 p.m. – not a minute too soon. The temperature had risen to 95 degrees inside as the sun beat down on the tin roof covering the church.

We left church and began packing to return to Bukavu. We were served lunch that we were worried was monkey meat and monkey ribs. When lunch was done it was time to return the 12 kilometers to retrieve our car. This time, instead of walking, we rented motorcyles to ride us back to the car (photo above). The motorcycle drivers were very young guys, but they were all experienced in riding on the uneven roads of mud and rocks. Don’s motorcycle got a flat tire after one kilometer, so he switched to another while two people squeezed on the back of one of the others. It was a rough, but quick ride back to our car.

The sun was beginning to set and storm clouds were moving in as we set off on the long drive back to Bukavu. The rain started after a few kilometers, making the road very treacherous in some spots. We prayed our way through the slippery spots, taking our time to drive carefully. We finally reached Bukavu at 11 p.m.

Congo Safari – Day 10

After a short night’s sleep we were up and off on another safari to visit a church in Bunyakiri, 75 kilometers from Bukavu. We were told that it would be just a day trip, the road was made of “old” blacktop and the drive would be easy and short. That was definitely not the case as the road was in disrepair. We had to pass through a national park where the dirt road was full of huge, muddy holes that had to be navigated with great care and slow speed.

Several kilometers past the national park we stopped to visit a HPCC church at Miowe. After a brief interview with the leaders and survey of the church plot we continued on. We only drove one kilometer before we were stopped by a police checkpoint at Bunyakiri. This time Dave was driving without his license. Strike three for Dave. This time we refused to pay a bribe, so we drove down the road to the police station to plead our case and ask for forgiveness. After a long period of discussion the police let us go without paying anything. We traveled ahead and stopped at the HPCC church at Kambegete, where we were greeted by pastors and members from three other HPCC churches from that area. A choir sang for us all and Alphonce gave a short sermon.

Next we turned back to our final destination of the day, Bunyakiri. It was 6:30 p.m. and it was clear to all of us that we would have to spend the night there. We were warmly welcomed at Bunyakiri. Three different choirs came to sing the night away (literally). The church prepared a feast for all of us and we were given warm water to bathe with. The drivers (Dave and Don) retired to a bedroom to try to get some rest while everyone else stayed to listen to Alphonce teach in the adjacent room. Don tried to tune out the noise and sleep, but even with music pumping from his iPod into his ears he could not. After 12:30 everyone walked down the hill to the church building for worship and prayer – which lasted until 2:30 a.m. We were up at 4:30 a.m. and on the road returning to Bukavu. Everyone was exhausted from lack of sleep and the rough ride back through the national park added insult to injury. The car was packed full of at least 10 people, plus a couple of chickens. (Photo above: Eating dinner in Bunyakiri)

Congo Safari – Day 11

We arrived back in Bukavu at 9:45 a.m. The rest of the day was spent preparing for our return to Tanzania and final meetings and goodbyes. Pastor Alphonce gave much advice and also met with Kiyembwa and the other leaders in order to resolve any remaining matters and conflicts between them.

Alphonce thanked the leaders and said that God is indeed working in Congo and we have seen His work there, but there is much more work to be done and the needs are great. The Congolese are facing many problems in their lives, including a bad economy, lack of government, corruption, and unruly refugees from Rwanda. People are running to God to find peace, better lives, and other help such as help to build churches. People truly love God, and there were some who were so driven as to walk over 480 kilometers on foot to reach Bukavu to see and hear us visitors from Tanzania.

Alphonce told the leaders that we had seen and learned many things that we would tell people about when we returned to Tanzania. We would continue to pray for them and tell our friends about our visit to Congo.

Then Alphonce advised the leaders to create a prayer committee that would even involve prayer warriors from other churches. The prayer warriors should pray for the church members, church income, and for the Word of God to be taught correctly in the churches. He also advised them to keep a record of all the believers in the church and all the visitors that are received. He also urged them to keep good financial records of each church’s income and expenses.

Next, Kitungano stood and told us that we were their “parents” in the Haven of Peace churches. We had seen the work in Congo and would not forget all the needs the churches have there. They need help in all their circumstances and in each place and our prayers are needed in order for God to heal Congo.

Then Mama Therese Misangi stood on behalf of all the women in the churches and said that the women of Congo need our prayers because they are being persecuted and even raped. Many have no clothing and no food. The women in the village of Sheke don’t have clothes and they are living very close to the forests where the bandit refugees are living.

Finally, each of us four were presented with a gift to take to our wives. We then loaded up our car and waved goodbye to a large crowd of people who came to send us off. Kitungano came along with us to Kigali, where we lodged at a Protestant guest house.

Congo Safari – Day 12
We were up and on the road to Tanzania at 6:30 a.m. We arrived at the Rwandan/Tanzanian border at Rusumu at 9:30. We took a brief rest and enjoyed a nice breakfast at a little café on the Tanzanian side of the border. The rest of the day was driving, driving, and more driving. In the evening we were driving through the bad dirt road section between Singida and Dodoma when we saw a large animal walking across the road in front of us. As we braked to get a closer look, we realized it was a large leopard! It sauntered slowly across the road to the right and immediately turned around in the grass to take a better look at us. Don wanted to take a picture, but Alphonce said “No! Go!” He was afraid that the leopard would jump at our car. We traveled on for several more kilometers until we reached a small village on the road where it was safe to take a roadside potty break, no leopards crossing the road there. Unfortunately, Dave’s phone fell out on the ground during the pitstop and he didn’t realize it was missing until we stopped for the evening. We had planned on driving straight through until Dodoma, but a security guard we gave a lift to advised us to spend the night in the town up ahead, because the stretch of dirt road beyond the town was not safe to drive at night due to bandits. So, we spent the night in Manyoni at a nice new motel, the Pentagon Guest House.

Congo Safari – Day 13
After 2 weeks of traveling we were all exhausted and very eager to reach home. Seven more hours of driving and we pulled into the church property in Dar. There was a sizeable group of people waiting for arrival. We gathered for a quick prayer of thanksgiving and then, for the first time in two weeks, we four travelers parted company to return to our families.

The Needs of the Churches in Congo

• The Word of God – The Congolese are facing many problems, so many people are looking to religious leaders to help them, instead of relying on God – to seek and know God should be their purpose
• Church buildings – Congo is a country that receives a lot of rain and temperatures can be very cool – a building with walls and a roof are very important
• Musical instruments and audio equipment for preaching and worship
• Motorcycles for transportation
• A home office located in Bukavu